Whether you learnt crochet from a family member or through using video tutorials as I did, it can be a big leap to reading and understanding written crochet patterns.
Many crocheters don’t know how to read a written crochet pattern. Yes they look like they’re written in a different language or even a secret code but once you understand how to break that code, there’s no turning back!
Understanding written crochet patterns will make you fluent in the craft of crochet. It will open up the opportunity to find thousands more crochet patterns, many of which haven’t been made into video tutorials. Look at all the crochet books available and the magazines – wouldn’t you want some of that?
In this article I will take you through understanding each section of a written crochet pattern. Like anything, practice makes perfect when learning a new language! The opinions in this post are formed of my own experience as a crochet designer and technical editor.
Let’s begin!
Not all crochet designers use the same format for their patterns but there is a general list of headings that you’ll usually find in a pattern. I use these:
The pattern name / title
Introduction
Skill Level
Materials / Notions Needed
Tension / Gauge
Finished Size and a Size Chart (for any pattern that can be made in more than one size such as garments)
Pattern Notes
Abbreviations
Stitch Instructions / Special Stitches
Instructions (to include Joining / Making Up and Finishing)
There is no right or wrong layout but most of these headings will usually be included if they are needed. I will explain each in more detail.
Introduction
The Introduction is not always included in patterns but it can be a nice way for the designer to introduce the inspiration behind the pattern and maybe give ideas for end uses or even colour combinations.
Skill Level
The Skill Level gives the crocheter an idea of how easy or difficult this pattern is to make. It is quite a subjective opinion but you can look at the Craft Yarn Council’s definitions for a more defined view. Generally speaking it depends on the complexity of stitches used, if there are charts to follow, colour changes etc.
Materials
The pattern should always give you a good idea of the yarn quantities needed including the yarn weight, colours plus hook sizes and anything else needed. It is important to note that the end result will depend on using the same yarn and hook size as the designer. Using other yarns may have a slightly different result because the gauge / tension may be different.
Look at this example here:
Tension / Gauge
Gauge or tension (UK term) is the number of stitches and rows in each inch which the designer includes so the maker can make the pattern to the given finished sizes in the pattern. Gauge is usually measured in 4x4in or 10x10cm squares in the stitches (or stitch pattern repeat) of the pattern with the given hook size. It is extremely important to make a gauge / tension swatch before starting the project to ensure you are achieving the same number of stitches and rows as the designer. See my example below:
This example above is saying you need to achieve 18.5 sts per 10cm / 4in. If you achieve 20 sts then your tension is too tight and you should try a bigger hook size. The same would be for the row tension. Too few stitches and your tension is too loose and you should try a smaller hook size. Note that not all crochet patterns will have a gauge / tension requirement. For granny squares, the designer may just give the dimensions of a finished square using a given hook size.
Finished Sizes
Some crochet patterns such as garments should include a finished size chart. It will give you the standard dress sizes such as 8/10, 12/14 etc, the standard chest size and then the finished chest, length and sleeve lengths per size. You may find that the yarn quantities are also included per size on this chart. I.e. a size 8/10 may need 5 skeins whereas a 16/18 may need 8 skeins. See the Craft Yarn Council’s size charts that are commonly used in the industry. For blankets, the designer will give a width and length after blocking. Even amigurimi toys will have finished dimensions included.
Pattern Notes
These are extra pieces of information that should be read before starting the pattern. It may contain information such as ‘Ch1 at the start of a row counts a 1dc (1sc).’ This means that the designer doesn’t have to write this section each time – when you see ‘ch1’ at the start of a row, you know it doesn’t count as a stitch and therefore won’t confuse the final stitch count.
This section might even contain how the item is constructed, or contain links to videos for parts of the pattern. Sometimes the designer may explain the formatting style of the pattern i.e what it means when {..} are used in the pattern instructions. The key thing is – don’t ignore this section!
Abbreviations
This is the section that baffles most crocheters when they start trying to work from patterns. The reason we use abbreviations is that to write everything out in full is just not feasible. The crochet pattern will be too long! Abbreviations are for used for crochet stitches and actions. I’ll explain what these are shortly.
The other point that confuses many people is that there are two types of crochet terms – US terms and UK terms. Most patterns are written in US terms because most crocheters are in the US but also many non-US crocheters actually prefer US terms because of the abundance of US written crochet patterns. Here’s what I mean:
| US Terms | UK Terms |
| SC – single crochet | DC – double crochet |
| HDC – half double crochet | HTR – half treble crochet |
| DC – double crochet | TR – treble crochet |
| TR – treble crochet | DTR – double treble crochet |
You understand my point as to why people get confused! However, each crochet pattern will have a table just like this in either US or UK crochet terms and abbreviations helping you to navigate through the pattern. Once you’ve learnt these terms, you’ll be able to read a crochet pattern very easily.
I have a handy downloadable free guide for UK / US crochet terms and notions so please sign up to my email list here to receive it. You can print it off and keep with your crochet projects.
This is an example of how you will see abbreviations used in a pattern using UK terms:
Round 1. Ch3 (counts as a 1st tr), 11tr into the ring, ss into 1st tr. FO [12sts]
Translates to: “Round 1. Chain 3, (counts as a 1st treble crochet – so every time you see a ch3, you know this is supposed to be a treble crochet at the start of a round / row), make 11 treble crochet into the magic ring, slip stitch into the first treble crochet. Fasten off.”
This is the same instruction written in US terms:
Round 1. Ch3 (counts as a 1st dc), 11dc into the ring, ss into 1st dc. FO [12sts]
You can see how much longer this one instruction is (2 lines) written out in full so it makes sense to abbreviate where possible.
Special Stitches
Some patterns may include more complex stitch patterns or techniques that need their own set of instructions. Most crochet patterns will expect a basic understanding of double / single crochet, treble / double crochet, slip stitches, chains etc by the reader. I will always include separate instructions for stitches like puff stitches, popcorn stitches and clusters even if I have labelled the pattern as a minimum of advanced beginner level. For example:
| popcorn stitch | Make 5tr in the same st, unhook the last st and insert the hk into the 1st tr from front to back, then pick up the last tr loop from back to front and pull this through the 1st loop on the hk so you have 1 loop left. |
Instructions
This section is the heart of the crochet pattern where all the magic happens! Patterns are usually written in rows or rounds so will be labelled as such. You will usually start with a slip knot on your hook which is not always mentioned but implied.
Patterns can often start with chains, magic rings / circles, foundation chains or rows etc. This is something that may or may not have detailed instructions such as the magic ring but you would have seen many videos on Youtube to help you master these starting techniques.
Patterns also tend to be broken down into Sections such as ‘Front’, ‘Arm’, ‘Joining Instructions’ and ‘Finishing Instructions’. By sectioning the pattern in this way, you can break the pattern down into manageable parts to be made without losing track of where you are.
Stitch diagrams / charts or schematics are often included with instructions. Charts and diagrams are there to help you navigate through the written instructions. Here is an example of a chart to the right.
This is a simple schematic diagram with a key which shows this pattern consists of chains, treble (US double) crochet and 2 treble crochet in the same space (a v-stitch). In row 1 you will put the 1st treble crochet into the 4th chain of the starting chain, chain 1, skip the next chain of the starting chain and make another treble crochet in the next chain etc.
Diagrams can also be included to show you how to layout the finished sections of a crochet pattern before joining. For example, you may have a granny square blanket and a diagram may show you how to pay out each square if they are different colours or patterns, or the order in which you join the squares.
Stitch repeats are usually denoted using asterisks and multiple stitches in the same chain-space or stitch are usually shown in brackets. For example:
“Row 1. Tr in 4th ch from the hk (counts as 1st 2tr), ch1, sk st, *2tr, ch1, sk st, rep from * to last 2 sts, 2tr, turn. [40tr, 19 ch1-sp]”
The section you are repeating is: 2tr, ch1, skip stitch until the instruction advises you otherwise – in this case you repeat that sequence of stitches until you get to the last 2 stitches remaining.
“Round 2. With Col. B, ss into any ch2-sp, ch1, (3trcl, ch2, 3trcl) in same sp and each ch2-sp around, ss into top of 1st 3trcl, FO. [16 3trcl, 8 ch2-sps]”
(3trcl, ch2, 3trcl) – the stitches inside these brackets are all worked into the same space.
Stitch counts are found at the end of a round or row and will tell you how many stitches that you should have worked in that round or row. Sometimes they are broken down by stitch type too. There is no wrong or right way of doing it but a really good point to note is that you only usually show stitch counts at the end of rows / round when they increase or decrease from the round / row before. You should count your stitches at the end of each round / row to stay on the right track and save lots of frogging down the line!
As I have already mentioned, practice makes perfect. Start with small, easier patterns and get used to the language. There are plenty of free crochet patterns online (mine are here) so have a browse and take the leap – you won’t regret it! Drop me a line if you get stuck or have any questions: munira@chromacrochet.com