As a crochet designer, understanding how yarn affects the outcome of your design will make a world of difference. When it comes to crochet, selecting the right yarn for your project is as crucial as choosing the right colour/s. From yarn weights to tension swatches, here are five expert crochet tips to help you choose the perfect yarn when it comes to designing your crochet pattern.
1. Understanding Yarn Weights
Yarn weight refers to the thickness of the yarn and it plays a key role in how your crochet project works up. Different weights create different textures, densities, and drape in your work. Choosing the wrong weight can drastically alter the finished result, whether you’re working on a delicate lace crochet pattern or a chunky scarf.
Here’s a quick overview of yarn weights:
Yarn Weight US / UK | Crochet Hook Size (mm) | Common Projects |
| Lace / 1 ply | 0.6-1.75mm | Fine doilies, lace shawls |
| Fingering / 2 ply | 1.5-3mm | Lightweight garments, fine accessories, socks, lacework |
| Super Fine (Sock) / 3 ply | 2.25-3.5mm | Socks, baby garments |
| Fine (Sport) / 4 ply | 3.5-4.5mm | Lightweight sweaters, shawls |
| Light Worsted / Double Knit | 3.5 -4.5mm | Garments, accessories |
| Worsted / Aran | 5 -6.5mm | Blankets, scarves, hats, chunkier accessories |
| Bulky / Chunky | 6.5-9mm | Thick scarves, rugs |
| Super Bulky / Super Chunky | 9 mm+ | Heavy blankets, winter hats |
It’s important to choose a yarn weight that fits the needs of your crochet project and pattern. For crochet designers, knowing which yarn weights work best with specific projects is essential for creating patterns that turn out as expected.
Consider this example: You are designing a shawl and it has a lot of textured stitches that is fairly dense in construction. How do you want your shawl to drape? With lots of movement and flow or do you want it to sit like a cosy hug around your shoulders?
You might want to consider something like 3 ply or 4 ply for more drape. Or a double knit for a denser finish. However, not all yarns are the same within their weight categories as I’m sure you’ve experienced!
2. Inconsistencies in Yarn Weights
While yarn weights are categorised, not all yarns of the same weight are created equally. Sometimes, two Aran-weight yarns from different brands may vary slightly in thickness, which can affect the final look and feel of your crochet project. Even within the same range of a brand, different colours can vary in thickness.There is no consistency to this either!
The varying yarn weight issue affected me when I was designing my very first sweater. Although the sweater was a simple shape, I wanted to use a new Aran weight yarn that had just come on the market. It had a lovely colour-changing effect. I made the jumper and it looked great but I wanted to make it in a plain colour too to show the lovely stitch pattern better. So I bought an Aran yarn from another brand.
As soon as I started the first few rows and took my measurements, I realised that the sweater was going to end up 2 sizes bigger – argh!!!! I put the two different brands next to each other and the difference in thickness was very noticeable.
Relating yarn weights to crochet design – points to consider:
- This was my first attempt at garment design – I should be thinking of keeping everything simple, including my choice of yarn..
- The sweater was simple in shape so I picked a textured stitch pattern which should have taken centre stage rather than the pattern of the yarn I chose.
- Was choosing a new yarn just on the market the best choice for my pattern? I don’t think so. Having realised that this yarn was quite ‘thin’ for an Aran, if someone had bought my pattern and used another type of Aran like the second version I made it would have been very dense.
To overcome this issue, don’t rely solely on the weight label. Always check the yarn’s recommended crochet hook size and compare it to the crochet pattern’s requirements. If in doubt, create a small sample swatch to see how the yarn behaves before committing to the entire project.
3. Check the Fibre Content
The fibre content of yarn plays a significant role in the drape, feel and overall finish of your crochet project. Different fibres behave differently and choosing the right one for your project can make or break the final result.
For example:
- Cotton yarn is great for summer projects, amigurumi, dishcloths / homewares, and lightweight garments.
- Wool yarn provides warmth and elasticity, making it perfect for winter garments and blankets. Always check the ball band for washing instructions though because some will require hand washing only while others will be OK on a low temperature in the washing machine.
- Acrylic yarn is affordable and versatile, but may not have the same warmth or drape as natural fibres.
As a crochet designer, make sure you experiment with various fibres to see how they perform in different crochet projects, and don’t be afraid to recommend alternatives in your crochet patterns.
4. Tension and Gauge Swatches
Tension swatches are essential, especially when you’re working on garments or any project where size and fit matter. A tension or gauge swatch allows you to measure how many stitches and rows you’re getting with your chosen yarn and hook.
Even a slight variation in your tension can lead to sizing problems. Which is why it’s crucial to always create a swatch before diving into a project. Crochet advice for designers: Make sure to include tension information in your crochet pattern, and remind crocheters that they may need to adjust their hook size to match the tension.
Problems that can arise without a proper tension swatch include:
- Finished project being too big or too small – especially crucial in garments and fashion accessories like hats.
- Geometric tapestry or mosaic style patterns may not look as intended. An example of this is was a checkerboard tank top I was working. The squares made using the tapestry method, ended up looking more like rectangles making the whole garment too long!
- Difficulty following the pattern as written.
5. Yarn Substitutions and Adaptations
Sometimes, the yarn recommended in a crochet pattern may be unavailable or too expensive. In these cases, understanding yarn weights and fibres allows you to choose a suitable alternative without compromising the design.
When substituting yarns:
- Stick to the same yarn weight as recommended in the pattern.
- Consider the fibre type (e.g. don’t substitute a wool yarn for a cotton one if you need elasticity).
- Make a tension swatch with the substitute yarn to ensure it matches the tension of the original yarn.
This knowledge is especially helpful for crocheters when providing yarn recommendations in your crochet pattern. Offering affordable or more readily available alternatives can make your crochet projects more accessible to a wider audience.
Conclusion
Selecting the right yarn for your crochet pattern is an important part of the design process. Whether you’re creating a crochet pattern as a designer or simply working on a personal project, understanding yarn weights, fibres, and how to check your tension is key. With these crochet tips and advice in hand, you’ll be well-equipped to make informed decisions about yarn choices.